JEWELRY TERMINOLOGY E - K
EFFETRE: Soda lime based "soft" glass with a lower melting temperature than borosilicate "hard" glass.
EMBOSSING: Ornamentation that is raised in relief from a surface. Work is done from the front by driving down the background and leaving the design in relief.
EMERALD CUT: A square cut with faceted edges.
ENGRAVING: The ornamentation of metals by means of small hand-pushed or hammer-driven chisels, differs from carving in that depth is suggested by shaded lines.
FACETS: Cuts made to shape stones and enhance lights.
FAUX: Used to denote man-made copies of gem stones.
FILIGREE: Open, lacy, decorative metal work.
FINDINGS: The functional metal parts used in the construction of jewelry - clasps, jump rings, etc.
FLUX: Substance used while soldering to inhibit the buildup of surface oxides on the seam.
FOXTAIL CHAIN: Tightly braided fine wire.
GALALITH: Trade name for casein (plastic) which is often confused with Bakelite, but of an entirely different makeup.
GAS BUBBLES: Spherical bubbles seen in glass and synthetics - a characteristic that helps separate these materials from most genuine gems in which the inclusions are usually angular.
GERMAN SILVER: Not silver but a combination of nickel, copper and zinc. Also called gunmetal or nickel silver. When a piece is marked EPNS it is electroplated nickel silver.
GILDING: Process where base metal is plated or coated with thin layer of gold.
GIMP: Coil of fine silver or gold colored thread. It is used at the apoint where the silk or nylon in a strong of beads or pearls joins the metal clasp to protect it from wear.
GOLD FILLED: Gold layer over base metal at least 1/20th of the total weight of the metal and marked GF.
GOLD PLATED: Gold layer over base metal less than 1/20th of the total weight of the metal and marked GP.
GOLD WASH: A very thin coating of gold over base metal.
GRANULATION: Large numbers of rounded metal grains are soldered onto a gold or silver background to express a pattern.
GUILLOCHE: (pr: gee oh SHAY) Machine-engraved decoration on metal over which a translucent enamel is applied.
GUTTA-PERCHA: A hard rubber material made from the sap of a Malayan tree. Discovered in 1840s. Black or brownish in color. Very lightweight.
HALLMARK: Mark on back of jewelry denoting gold or silver content.
HAND WROUGHT: Made from a flat piece of silver or other metal entirely with hand tools.
INTAGLIO: (pr: in TAHL yo) A carved gem in which the design has been engraved into the stone. Differs from cameo in that the figure is incised in the intaglio and raised in the cameo.
JAPANNED: Black lacquered metal.
JOYERIA: Spanish: can refer to jewelry or to a jewelry store.
JUMP RINGS: Round rings of wire used for joining, linking, articulation and chain making.
KARAT: 1/24th of the total weight in a gold alloy - 24 karats is pure gold. Because of the softness, pure gold is not suitable for making jewelry. Copper, silver, nickel and zinc are added to gold to strengthen it. What is added and how much is added determines the color and karat of the gold.
In Europe, gold is stamped according to its fineness.
US Karats Percent of Gold Fineness
24 100% 1000
22 95.83% 958