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JEWELRY TERMINOLOGY L - Z LAMPWORK: Molten glass is wound around a steel rod, called a mandrel, to make a glass bead. The name is derived from early glass bead makers in Venice who used oil lamps as their heat source. LUCITE: Trade name for acrylic resin introduced by Dupont in 1937. MALLEABILITY: The quality in metals of being able to stretch laterally when hammered. MANDREL: A steel shape used for supporting metal while it is being hammered and formed. The most common variety is a ring mandrel, a round tappered rod that accommodates all the usual ring sizes along its length. MARQUIS: Oval shaped stone with a point on each end. Also called a Navette. MESH: Construction method where the piece of jewelry appears to have been woven of thread. MITERING: The process of making angled bends, usually 90 degrees, in metal. MOH'S SCALE: Conceived by German mineralogist, Mohs, it is the most commonly used scale of relative hardness of minerals. Each mineral of a given hardness scratches all of those with a lower number. MOSAIC: Decorated with many small pieces of multicolored stone (pietra dura) or glass (tessarae). MOTHER OF PEARL: Irridescent inside lining of mollusks. NAVETTE: Oval shaped stone with a point on each end. Also called Marquis. NIELLO: Describing the black enameling on Sterling Siam jewelry. OXIDATION: The discoloration and buildup of surface impurities on metals that have been exposed to heat, air and chemicals. Also refers to the controlled coloring of metals with chemical solutions. PARURE: (pr: pah ROOR) More than two pieces of the same design - a set. PATE DE VERRE: (pr: Paht duh VAIR) Molded colored glass used in jewelry, sometimes called poured glass. PATINA: (pr: pah TEEN a) Color change on surface of metal resulting from age and exposure to atmosphere. PAVE: (pr: pa VAY) Method of setting many small stones very closely together - paved. PEAR CUT: Tear drop shaped stone. PICKLE: A caustic solution used for removing oxides and borax from the surace of metals, particularly after soldering operations. PIETRA DURA: (pr: pee AY tra DOO ra) "Hard stone". Type of mosaic made of small pieces of stone which form a picture or scenic design. PINCHBECK: Alloy of copper and zinc used to imitate gold. PLATERIA: Spanish: place where silver is sold or a reference to silver jewelry or objects. PLIQUE A JOUR: (pr: pleek a ZHOOR) Enameling process in which the groundplate (the metal base on which enamels are fired) is removed after firing. The end result resembles stained glass with the translucent enamel framed in wire. POT METAL: Base white metal, tin and lead alloy, grayish in color, used in early 20th century costume jewelry. PRONG-SET: Stones held in place by metal claws or prongs. REPOUSSE: (Pr: ree poo ZAY) Raised design in metal. RETICULATION: A surface treatment where controlled heating of the metal results in a rippled, molten effect. Most commonly used on silver and gold. RHODIUM: Nontarnishing white metal that resembles platinum. ROLLED GOLD: A thin layer of gold fused over base metal. ROSE CUT: An early style of stone cutting that is thought to have originated in India and to have been brought to Europe by the Venetians. ROSE GOLD: Gold of a pinkish color (alloyed with copper). ROSE MONTEE: Small, flat-backed circular-cut rhinestones, usually colorless. ROUGE: A greasy red polishing compound. SAUTOIR: (pr: so TWAHR) A long necklace or strand of beads or pearls often terminating in a tassel or pendant. SCARAB: Egyptian symbol of immortality, the Scarabaeus beetle, usually carved or molded in stone, clay or glass. SHAKUDO: (pr: Sha KOO doe) Japanese alloy of copper with small amount of gold. SHANK: The part of a ring that encircles a finger. STAMPING: Decorating technique where a relief design is achieved by means of the stamping or a mechanical stamping machine. STERLING SILVER: An alloy of 925 parts of pure silver and 75 parts copper TAILLE D'EPARGNE: (pr: tie ya day PARN) Enameling technique where the engraving is partially filled with opaque enamel, usually black. TALLER: Spanish: a workshop or atelier. TESSARAE: (pr: tessa RAY) Tiny colored glass pieces used in mosaic. TORSADE: Multi-strand twisted short necklace usually beads or pearls. TRIFANIUM: Metal alloy invented by Gustavo Trifari of Trifar jewelry. High quality durable finish which resembled rhodium. Began using this finish on Trifari jewelry in July, 1947. TRIPOLI: A coarse, greasy polishing compound used in the first stage of polishing to remove the marks and scratches left by emery paper. VERMEIL: (pr: Ver MAY) A gold wash over sterling silver. VULCANITE: Vulcanized (hardened) rubber used for mourning jewelry in the 19th century. WHITE GOLD: Alloy of gold with nickel, palladium or platinum. WIREWORK: Twisted wire decoration applied to metal ground. YELLOW GOLD: Alloy of gold and silver and copper. |
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